My relationship with my hangboard is complex. Day or night, rain or shine, if I can motivate she is available for some tough love. She is a cruel mistress. What is true here could be typical among meaningful partnerships in that the reward I extract is proportional to the effort I invest. I’ve heard that before, about other things, though the experience is still maddening. It is also very effective.
I had trained on various versions of hangboards, sometimes sporadically, for about 15 years before again breaking my leg ahead of the 2015 climbing season. Over the next twelve months I focused almost exclusively on my Beastmaker 2000. Here are the sets I came up with, presented in the app I wrote. Four or five times a week I would pull a few of these up on my phone, prop the screen up behind my board, and press play.
| Warm-Up Sets: | Standard Warm-Up Crimps No. 001 Standard Warm-Up Pockets No. 001 |
| Training for Routes: | Beastmaker 2000 Routes |
| Mono Training: | Beastmaker 2000 Mono Sets |
| 1-Arm Pull-Up Training: | Beastmaker 2000 1-Arm Sets |